All Nigerians I have spoken to including the hotel staff, friends and physicians all reflect on how this election was by far the most peaceful and transparent in Nigerian history. Nigeria has a young democracy with the last vote in 2007 filled with much more violence and ballot rigging. In watching TV commentary, a common theme was the quality and intentions of the candidates themselves. Whereas we hope that people run for office to want to serve others and for the betterment of society and their community, there is always some element of self gratification and glory. In Nigeria, the latter may hold more true than the former. Plus, those elected to office stand to gain ridiculous salaries and benefits exceeding up to 1 million USD a year when most of the country subsists on less than 2 USD a day. In addition, extreme immunity laws are also in place for elected officials. As an elected official, they all have immunity from investigation and prosecution from corruption and other crimes. Talk about a motivating factor to do whatever it takes to remain in office. Now compounded with intense poverty and the urge to provide the most for themselves and their family, these are motivators to bring someone to try to become an elected official. To serve others and better the nation may entirely be a secondary or even farther goal.
In Lagos, its people feel confident that the incumbent governor, Babatunde Raji Fashola, will win reelection quite confidently and the early reports point to this as well. Most feel that he has done a lot of good for Lagos and have faith in his plans for continued growth and development. His posters with his face is most densely saturated in Lagos. Here is an example.
I've also learned a bit about the different ethnic groups in Nigeria which include the Yoruba (I've been in Yorubaland during my whole trip) who predominantly live in the southwest, the Hausa from the north and the Ebo in the east. Each group has a distinct native language, cultural practices and religious beliefs. Many of the Yoruba I have met are devote Christians with some Muslims as well who all seem to be very religiously tolerant. However, from what I understand, the Hausa, who are overwhelming Muslim, subscribe to more extreme Islamic beliefs. The Hausa Muslim will not pray with a Yoruba Muslim. Generally, women having very subservident roles (and limited opportunities for education) and children as I mentioned earlier are often sent from their homes at a ripe age of 8 to 10 fend for themselves without parental love and nurturing. There is also quite a bit of inbreeding where first cousins may marry as well. These children remain uneducated, trying to survive eat day and can fall prey to extreme Islamic sects that offer food and "love" in exchange for their obedience and participation in acts of violence or defiance against the government.
Poverty and lack of education with a religious undertone seem to be drivers of the violence and perhaps abject political corruption that has been reported in northern Nigeria. Since my stay here, no acts of violence in Yorubaland. To learn about how northern Nigeria was in contrast to my experiences in southwest Nigeria point to two different Nigerias - the southwest, led by Lagos, with economic growth and development and effective leadership and the north with religiously driven violence and widespread suppression of its people. Some Nigerians I have even spoke to suggest that someday not too far away (say 5-10 years), Nigeria may split along these lines. Thus far, there have been attempts for unity (i.e. relocating the capital to the center of the country to an entirely man-made city for that purpose, Abuja) potentially affected by the oil rich areas in the north (Lagos apparently has its own oil too). But some wouldn't mind if Nigeria was to divide. Of course my understanding of this situation may be flawed (and one sided, I haven't really spoke to any Hausas except to purchase things from them) as I'm relying on personal conversations with Yorubas but riveting nonetheless.
This is not to say that there is no poverty in Lagos. In fact, a young girl possibly no older than 5 or 6 years old begged through the car window on my way to Fela! Budgets of construction projects in central Lagos even include a fund to specifically bribe orphans/urchins that interfere with construction so that the children will allow the workers to continue to work. Clearly, there is still a lot of poverty and low levels of education in Lagos. But Lagoians, at least the ones I have spoken to, have a lot of pride of the improvements that have been made thus far.
Tomorrow, I'll be going for my first day in LASUTH. Looking forward to learning how things work here.
As I reflect on going home soon (yay!), here is a list of things I brought and/or learned that I thought was most helpful for my first trip to Africa. Not exhaustive but a start.
1. Purell. Water isn't readily available before meals and in the hospitals and plus, you aren't suppose to drink water or brush your teeth with water in Africa. I brought a larger bottle and a smaller bottle that I periodically refilled.
2. DEET lotion. This has worked for me and applying it to exposed skin has been a daily ritual. I think wearing long pants and long sleeves helps too if you can deal with the sweating.
3. Flashlight + batteries. Lots of light outages and if you are somewhere that can't run a generator all the time or in a place where you need to go out and turn on the generator, you need a flashlight. Plus, you never know when the gent might run out of fuel or malfunction. Thus, bring a flashlight and extra batteries for it.
4. Plug adapters. The plugs in Nigeria are like the British ones. This may vary by African country. I brought 2 so I could use both my laptop and also charge my cell phone and other things.
5. Moist face wipes. This was helpful when there was no running water to wash my face. Plus it was refreshing when I would sweat like crazy all the time.
6. Danskos. Yes, the medical heavy duty clogs. Nigerian hospitals are not known for cleanliness. You never know what you might be stepping on (and your good shoes might get ruined) and there are not always sidewalks to walk on. Danskos were good with protecting my feet and sturdy on rocky surfaces.
7. Make sure all your electronics have good battery life. This is specific to Nigeria and any other country with unreliable electricity. My laptop has crappy battery life. I wish I had replaced my battery before coming because once the power goes out, at least you can continue your activities with battery run devices. Also, when the light is on, charge all your battery operated stuff. Don't wait because the light might be gone by then.
8. Pocket sized tissues and/or handkerchief. You will sweat a lot even if you wear close to nothing. I carried pocket sized tissues (also helpful for using bathrooms without toilet paper). Most men had handkerchiefs in their pockets.
9. Take your malaria prophylaxis and vaccinations. It's not 100% effective but do you want to get malaria? Take it appropriately before and after the trip as well. Get a bednet if you won't be staying in quarters that are known to have good window screens (check for holes) and/or air conditioning. Get your vaccinations well in advance. Trust me, this will give you peace of mind. If you won't be in air conditioning, it might be worth it to bring a small plug fan.
10. Exercise good common sense. If you aren't black and are in Africa, you are like a light bulb. Even if you aren't "white" in the US, you are white here. Just accept that you don't blend in and that will make you somewhat of a target. I wasn't extra adventurous and exercised caution and still had a lot of fun and experiences to share.
11. Eat from reputable places. If you get any diarrhea, it's because of something you ate. Unless you want to have constant diarrhea, try not to eat off the street albeit very tempting all the time (I see lots of fresh pineapple on the street). If you cook anything long enough and hot enough, it should be safe to eat. Re: fruit and veggies, if you can't boil it or peel it, don't eat it! Avoid ice unless you know where it came from (i.e. made from bottled water). Don't ever drink the tap water. The locals don't drink it. You shouldn't drink it. Brush your teeth with bottled water. Bring ciprofloxacin +/- metronidazole and PeptoBismol just in case you need it.
12. USD. Bring the most newest $100 and $50 USD available to you. Bring what you think you need and plus a quite a bit more. Nigeria is a cash economy and don't think that you can go to some ATM and withdrawal money unless you want to pay Western Union fees. You get the best exchange rates for $50 and $100 USD bills (not as good for $20 USD) and make sure they are the most current/new versions. Be prepared to exchange your money in a somewhat shady private set up or on the street in Lagos. You get the best rates this way. Currency exchanges and hotels give you lower rates.
13. Anything you would miss not having. If there is some type of shampoo or toothpaste or facial wash that you use regularly and would miss using, bring it with you. Don't expect that you will find it (you might or might not) and it might be somewhat inconvenient and expensive to locate it. Bring your contact lenses solutions too; I don't think I saw any while I was here. You will feel more comfortable having it with you. Trust me.
14. Food. Bring some food with you to make your transition smoother. I brought Luna/Cliff bars and fruit leathers. I wish I brought more. To just pick up some food on your way here and there isn't as convenient in Nigeria as it is back home. Plus, you may need to prepare some meals on your own esp if you are in Nigeria for a while. It was helpful to have some food in my pocket/purse esp when in the hospital after I realized people did not break regularly for lunch.
15. Plan to get a temporary cell phone during your stay. If you will be in Nigeria for a while, a cell phone is key for ppl to find you and for you to find ppl. If you have an unlocked phone in the US, bring it with you and buy a SIM card when you land. Don’t forget the charger and an adapter. Airtel is one of the cheapest and most affordable networks; all networks have somewhat unreliable service. You buy different increments of phone credits to recharge your phone with money to call. Receiving calls and texts are free. You only get charge for the texts you send and the call you initiate. You can also use the phone to call home pretty affordably. Skype is also a good alternative to call home but also may not work if the internet is down (or you don’t have regular access) and if the light is out.
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